How to paint grey knights
How to paint grey knights
How To Paint 40 Grey Knights At Once
Want to play Grey Knights? Get some tips on how to paint them fast with this hobby throwback guide to painting 40 Grey Knights, all at once
Editor’s Note: This is repost from back when the first Grey Knights codex dropped in 2011. I did a batch painting of 40 Purifier Models, and I think they turned out great. You see to keep me motivated, and show a live step by step progression, I posted each step up on Facebook as I went!
Below is basically a brief summary of how I painted the Purifiers with a little video feature at the end showing my Grey Knight army as a whole (and were painted pretty much the same way as these purifiers).
You can see most of the step by step progressions, broken down in greater detail, in the project album itself Painting Grey Knights: Project Album.
To start off the whole project I assembled and primed the figures in pieces. This helps me use the airbrush to its full potential by not having to go back and clean up messy over-sprays, and mistakes.
I used double sided tape, to affix the shoulder pads, heads, backpacks, and interchangeable weapons to wooden paint “stir sticks”. That makes for an easy hold handle when airbrushing the individual components. (I leaned this trick from Kenny at Next Level Painting).
Next I started in on basecoating and shading the models. I forget the exact formula I used, but it was basically an airbrushed highlight of Boltgun over a black washed Boltgun basecoat.
Then after a quick black glaze I did a light drybrush (for definition) with a lighter metal, a Mithiril Silver equivalent I think.
Then I hit everything with a blue tinted glaze to keep with the Grey Knight theme and pull the work all together.
A big trick to getting these washes and glazes to flow perfect is to matte or satin coat the models before applying washes. It also preserves the airbrush work done to that point as well, which is never a bad thing.
The ‘Eavy Metal painters use the Purity Seal spray because of it’s “satin” finish which helps preserve the true appearance of the paint job in between steps!
The method I used on the shoulder pads I covered in a separate article cataloged at the end of this post below.
After varying the colors used in this method, to white over a blue base I painted the Purifier helmets the exact same way.
The smaller details such as Purity Seals, eyes and gold trim were painted traditionally with a brush and then washed again for depth.
The Purity Seals / Tabard method is also catalogued below for easy reference.
Then I added lightning to the halberds, and red to the Psycannon weapon stocks to complete the models themselves.
After that snow and flock were added to the bases. Then I glued the separate heads, pads and backpacks onto their bodies’ to make the models come to life for the first time!
Next I mattecoated the models again to preserve all the work to that point, and seal snow and flock to the bases.
Once they were dry for the very last (but not least) step, I brushed on glosscoat from Vallejo to the Halberds, Psycannon stocks, and the red tops of the Purity Seals.
Here’s some close ups of the finished product!
And an overall shot of the final batch of 30 (I did ten first as a “test”).
Top to Bottom: How to Paint Grey Knights Tutorial
Wyatt from Jack of Clubs Painting is bringing us a sweet how to paint Grey Knights tutorial, just in time for the new codex.
Jack of Clubs Painting is a regular here and today he’s giving us some advice on quickly getting your own Grey Knights ready to throw down.
We’ve broken down the highlights from this tutorial, but follow along with the video for a detailed experience to get these minis done fast! Don’t forget to check out his other video tutorials here as well.
Top to Bottom: How to Paint Grey Knights Tutorial
For a nice change, Wyatt actually gives us a full list of the paints we will be using at the start of the video, so if we want to follow along we can get our hobby area prepped and ready to go. You don’t have to pause the video and dig around!
Plus the Mr.Hobby weathering system consisting of Multi Black and Solvent.
You can also use some of your own choices for Gloss Varnish, Dark Blue, Medium/Royal Blue, Light Blue, White, Dark Red, and Bright Red.
Base Coats
Wyatt’s choice of model for this tutorial is actually an alternative model, but all the techniques will be identical. First, he starts off with a simple black primer.
Next, he fills his pot with Dark Silver and one drop of Transparent Blue. He does over almost the entire model except for the deepest crevices. Then, he highlights the model with Silver and one drop of Transparent Blue.
Hitting the Details
After that, he brushes in some base details. He takes black to the joints and a few minor places. Then uses Light Umber on the tabard and other areas that will be a light-colored bone color. He goes over that with Light Warm Grey.
New MKII Design- Get it Now!
Then he follows up by covering the rear cape with a Dark Red and highlights with a lighter red. He takes a bit of creative freedom and makes the purity seals wax Light Blue. He also Does all of the trim in Bronze.
Washing
Next up he begins the wash process. He covers the model in solvent and goes over it slowly with multi-black, then cleans it up as it dries with the solvent, making sure it doesn’t pool up in any unnatural areas.
After that, he heavily dilutes some translucent blue and creates a sort of pin wash. After it dries, he highlights the silver armor by dry brushing the same silver over the washed silver. Use this same method with the bronze, then he highlights the wax with Light Blue. Next some very thin Light Warm Grey is used to highlight the tabard and then some ivory is dry brushed over that. He takes an optional step and does the eyes here as well.
Painting the Blade
Next up is the power weapon blade. He uses Dark Blue in the airbrush to imitate the typical fractalized power blade that people tend to do. He also highlights that with Light Blue, then again with White. After airbrushing, he dry brushes that white onto the edges of the blade.
And with that, he is complete! If you want to hear Wyatt’s breakdown, watch the full video above.
Follow along with the latest from Jack of Clubs on YouTube below or LIVE on Twitch four nights a week!
Jack of Clubs Painting on Twitch
This post contains affiliate links, as an Amazon Associate Spikey Bits earns from qualifying purchases.
Tutorial: How to paint Grey Knights
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In this step by step tutorial I will show you how I paint my Grey Knights using the new range of paints from Citadel. In just 39 steps you can replicate the above paint job.
I’ve designed this tutorial so established painters find it interesting but also so new comers to the hobby can learn some basic and advanced techniques. I will use terms such as glazing and washing, don’t worry if you don’t know what these mean because I will elaborate and explain during that step.
Paints you will need for this tutorial:
Gulliman Blue (glaze)
Auric Armour Gold (layer)
Evil Sunz Scarlett (layer)
Ceramite White (base)
Ushanti Bone (layer)
Temple Gard Blue (layer)
Stirland Mud (texture)
Mourn Mountain Snow (texture)
In case you need to expand your paint collection, head over to Wayland Games or Slave to Painting, which both stock a huge selection of paints at competitive prices.
Stage 1 – Blue Steel Armour and Gold Trim
Firstly, I just wanted to say I don’t paint straight from the pot. I prefer to use an old white tile and I always add water to my paints, even when I’m using Lahmian Medium (Glaze Medium).
Step 1.1
I use Vallejo Surface Primer with my Airbrush, you can read how in this review I wrote.
Step 1.2
Runefang Steel, Kantor Blue and Lahmian Medium are mixed together to create a metallic with a blue tinge. This is a thin mix that should go on in 2-3 coats. Paint this on as smooth as possible. If it’s lumpy all the imperfections will show on the shiny armour. Use an airbrush if possible, especially if you’re painting an army to save time.
Step 1.3
I create a dark blue mix with Kantor Blue, Abaddon Black and Lahmian Medium and proceed to line all the armour joints to create depth.
Step 1.4
I enhance the blue armour by using Guilliman Blue Glaze. This doesn’t act like a wash, so you have to do the previous step to get the shading.
Step 1.5
Mixing Lahmian Medium with Runefang Steel I highlight the armour which instantly brightens up the model.
Step 1.6
I base coat the Gold areas with Hashhut Copper and Lahmian Medium. This medium gets used a lot with the metallics because they’re a bit thick and gloopy for my tastes, so this thins the paint better then water.
Step 1.7
Now I create my own wash by using a lot of Lahmian Medium with Rhinox Hide mixed with Abaddon Black and run this over the gold. This has a different surface tension to a pre bought wash and I prefer it for this stage, it shades deeper then a wash. A wash tends to colourise an area, where as this flows in and covers completely.
Step 1.8
Add a quick highlight of Auric Armour Gold with a touch of Lahmian Medium.
Stage 2 – Red and White
Step 2.1
Base coat the area with Khorne Red. On a side note, this is a better match for the old Mecharite Red then the new Mephiston Red. Don’t forget to paint the Storm Bolter and Sword handle like I did in the picture.
Step 2.2
Step 2.3
Highlight with Evil Sunz Scarlett.
Step 2.4
Shade with a mix Khorne Red and Rhinox Hide. Add plenty of Lahmian Medium and just paint it into the recesses or the lower halves of the flat red areas.
Step 2.5
Mix some Flash Gitz Yellow and Ceramite White into Evil Sunz Scarlett to create a colour to edge highlight with. I didn’t use this colour on the cloth areas. Cloth doesn’t tend to be very shiny (unless it’s satin) so it doesn’t need the extra shiny highlight.
Step 2.6
For the white areas of the model base coat with Fenrisian Grey. 2 coats.
Step 2.7
Then highlight with Ulthuan Grey. 1 coat.
Step 2.8
1 coat of Ceramite White is used as the final highlight. Building up the colours like this cuts down the number of coats need to paint white and you get some shading as well.
Stage 3 – Gun Metals and Bone/Parchment
Step 3.1
Basecoat the gun metals with Warplock Bronze.
Step 3.2
Step 3.3
Final edge highlight of Runefang Steel.
Step 3.4
Basecoat all the skulls and purity seals with Mournfang brown.
Step 3.5
Mix a touch of Mournfang Brown into Ushabti Bone and paint over the whole areas leaving the previous layer showing though the overlapping parchment joins.
Step 3.6
Use pure Ushabti Bone to highlight with.
Step 3.7
Watered down Rhinox Hide is used to add very very thin lines to the parchment as mock text.
Stage 4 – Black joints and Nemesis Force Weapon
Step 4.1
Use Abaddon Black to paint all the ribbed areas between the armour. This is a good point to tidy up any other areas with black as well.
Step 4.2
Paint some thin lines using Russ Grey as highlights.
Now for the bit you’ve been waiting for and the bit I was dreading! The Nemesis Power Sword, blending colours with close up pictures… Gulp!
To save myself repeating myself, mix Lahmian Medium in at every stage to aid blending. I found these Citadel paints blended smoother then Vallejo.
Step 4.3
Paint the whole blade with Lothern Blue.
Step 4.4
Then paint opposite quarters with Temple Guard Blue. Paint along the length of the blade, not across it. This will help avoid banding.
Step 4.5
Using Teclis Blue repeat the above step but make sure you leave some Temple Guard Blue showing. You should start to see the colours blend together. Don’t load up with heavy brush. Light thin coats blend better.
Step 4.6
Mix a touch of Kantor Blue into Teclis and paint that over the previous layer. Remember, paint along the length the of the sword for all these layers leaving some of the previous layer showing through.
Step 4.7
Repeat 4.6 but add more Kantor Blue. 50:50 is about right for this step.
Step 4.8
Kantor Blue with water and Lahmian Medium is used on the far ends now as the darkest colour. I have gone to near black in the past, but to keep steps down and keep a softer look to the blade just Kantor is fine.
Step 4.9
Now we do the reverse. Using lighter colours we will blend the highlights. Mix Ulthuan Grey into Lothern Blue and paint the opposite ends you’ve just been painting.
Step 4.10
Pure Ulthuan Grey mixed with Lahmian Medium is used on the ends. This should be roughly 1/3 of the blade.
Step 4.11
Very carefully paint Ceramite White on the edges. Use the side of the brush to do this. Don’t forget the central edge of the blade. I can not stress how careful you need to be now. Don’t get any on the blends, becauseit’s really hard to tidy up a blended colour.
Stage 5 – Basing
Step 5.1
Basing is personal preference and I just made this up quickly to fit in with the rest of the army. It’s a lump of slate pushed into some modelling putty with some skulls glued to it. I paint the slate with Rhinox Hide.
Step 5.2
Then using a couple of greys I drybrush the rock being carefully not to get any on the skulls I painted at step 3.4
Step 5.3
Stirland Mud is slapped on with an old brush where the rock overhangs.
Step 5.4
Mourn Mountain Snow is then painted onto the rock, the skulls, around the edges and the bottom of the boots.
Step 5.5
To finish, I glue a piece of scrub to the base (I forgot to paint snow on top of it – doh) and then edge the base with black.
There you go, quite simple really. The colours are pretty much spot on compared the Vallejo paints I used for other Grey Knights. Thank you for reading my tutorial, it’s taken 20+ hours to create but I’ve enjoyed every single minute. Please do share it with your hobby communities and friends or repost it on your own blogs. Leave me a comment if you enjoyed it to, what I’d really love to see is you guys trying it out yourself and posting the results in the comments.
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Garfy
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54 Comments
OK.. first paragraph cracks me up.. «In just 39 steps.. » that aside.. great work.. the look of the GK there is one that looks much better than just slapping on some Silver and Gold, and calling it finished.. if I ever were to jump onto the Power Armor train, I would be following this in a heart beat.. that being said, many of the techniques and recipes I will use in other projects ( scrolls, power sword especially ).
Thanks for this, time well spent in making it, and more so in reading it 🙂
The recipe is not for people who want to do their Grey Knights quickly, but the effect is stunning. I wonder how would Alclad metallic lacquers fare on miniatures, although I strongly suspect the end result wouldn’t look, for want of a better word, cinematic enough.
Awesome tutorial and although I dont collect GK’s I’ll be using parts of it for other things, thanks for posting
Absolutely amazing article. Thanks so much for posting this up. I’ll be directing traffic to your post. Thanks for taking the extra time to create this!
That was very interesting. Perhaps you could post a comparison shot with one of your originals Knights so people can finally see the two paint brands side by side.
Post up my version eh…Guess I have a marine I can dig up why not?
Very, very nice tut! It’s a shame that I don’t play Grey Knights, yet your Force Weapon technique will certainly be of use on my Eldar witchblades… Yeah, I know: HERESY! Ahem. I’m sorry, I’ve been a pointy-ear all the last 15 years.
This is just plain spectacular and the reason why I originally started stalking this site – however, I am completely hooked and now check it multiple times a day.
Garfy – I know you originally used straight VGC paints for your Grey Knights previously. Would you recommend using the steps detailed here with the new paints instead of your original scheme with VGC?
In your opinion, what is the difference between the two brands of paints when painting up your grey knights?
Thanks in advance and once again, amazing, amazing tutorial.
@ Mr Lee – I know, just 39 steps lol, made me giggle when I wrote it. Still, I thought it was going to be a lot more then that.
@ Marcin – I don’t think the steps involved would be too difficult to follow, I think it’s of a similar level to the tutorials you see in White Dwarf and and they’re aimed at all ages. What are Alchad Metallic Laquers? Sounds interesting.
@ Stunty – Be sure to link me when you try out some of the techniques. I would love to see.
@ Brian – Thanks for directing traffic towards this post, it’s very much appreciated.
@ Minitrol – I’m planning a WIP pic of the Storm Raven soon, I’ll sneak in a comparison shot of the new GK vs an Old one too. Oh, and you don’t know how excited it makes me feel to know you’re going to try the tutorial out. Can not wait to see the results.
@ Kai – I think the blue blades would look awesome on the Eldar Witchblades. What’s your colour scheme? You must have amassed an impressive collection in 15 years?
@Bearden314 – you’re the reason I posted this tutorial, you originally asked me in August last year for a detailed tutorial, sorry you had to wait, but thank you for following Tale of Painters regularly. Myself and the other guys really appreciate it.
In answer to your question there are too differences. Vallejo metallics are thinner and smoother (but not by much when you add medium to the GW paints) but the GW bases and layers are smoother and blend better then vallejo. Both are great and the differences are subtle and tbh it’s open to debate. I’m sure there are people who would disagree with me.
Excellent tutorial, and great job putting it together; I love seeing the paint pots with each step.
Only nitpick – somebody must have swapped labels on your new paints. In step 4.3, you show Emperor’s Children, but that’s a pink/magenta color, not the blue shown.
Really liking these tutorials will be borrowing the blue/steel when I eventually get around to doing my Bretonnians. 🙂
You’re a great inspiration, keep up the good work mate.
Great tutorial!
🙂
I really like the way you have worked to sequence the images and put them in blocks and THEN have text. The images in sequence but easily viewed side-by-side makes each step very clear.
Thanks again for all the effort!
This is awesome Garf. Your tutorials sould be gathered together and posted on GW’s website or in one of their how too’s. I have 40 GK’s I just finished assembling this weekend that I will be trying this this week. I need to skip over to the store to pick up the paints so I can get started.
@ Garfy: Alclad (well, Alclad II, if you want to get all technical) lacquers are metallic paints aircraft modelers swear by. Since I’m into terrestrial stuff, I’ve never used them in my projects, but judging by other peoples’ models there’s nothing that can seriously rival them when it comes to representing metals of all kinds, even if they’re rather unforgiving when it comes to surface imperfections. Google the name, manufacturer’s website is impossible to miss.
@Garfy I’ll try my best to get something done this week, (screaming dependants provisional approval required)
Fantastic article, grey knights are my next project and your post is really going to help make them pop! I love the detailed step by step you presented.
How much medium do you apply to the mix, considering that you are going to add water as well?
I thought I had read somewhere that you used real rocks for the bases. How are you sticking the figures to them without them breaking off later?
@ Bananaman – That’s just typical. Trust me to get a paint with the wrong label when I write a review. Thanks for pointing it out.
@SW1 – Thanks dude.
@ Minitrol – I got my fingers crossed.
@ Jeff – it’s all about feel and consistency. You kinda have to experiment with what feels right for you. But as a rough guide if I was highlighting the armour with Runefang silver, I’d do something like 25% glaze medium.
@b w dunbar – I pin them. You can use a pin vice on slate.
For us color blind…. if it is not Emperor’s Children what color might it be?
Lothern Blue. I’m gong to update the tutorial now. Sorry guys.
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There’s been a lot of interest in how we paint the armour for our Grey Knights so it’s time to throw back the curtain and show you exactly how they’re done. Lets get started!
Paints used:
Equipment used:
Techniques used:
We’ll be using an airbrush for part of this tutorial running at 25 Psi.
We’ll also be using a technique called zenithal highlighting. To do this you spray the model from a top down view in a 90° cone. This creates a gradient where you can see the highlight colour from above while keeping the previous colour visible from below.
1. After priming the model basecoat it with Grey Knights Steel.
2. With an airbrush apply a zenithal highlight of Plate Mail Metal.
3. Wash the whole model with a 1:1:2 mix of Nuln Oil/ Drakenhof Nightshade/ Lahmian Medium. Make sure to move this wash around so it doesn’t pool on any of the flatter surfaces.
4. Using a 3:1 mix of Contrast Medium/ Ultramarines Blue glaze the lower volumes of the armour panels to give them a blue tint. You can also run this into some of the deeper recesses to give them more definition.
5. Using a 2:1 mix of Lahmian Medium/ Plate Mail Metal area highlight the upper volumes of the armour.
6. Edge highlight the model with Shining Silver.
With those steps done that’s the armour finished. Now all that’s left to do is paint the rest of the details and your Grey Knight will be ready to purge some Daemons!
If you’d like to see how we paint power weapons like the picture above make sure to check out this tutorial aswell:
Did you find this tutorial helpful? Will you be using it to paint your own Grey Knights? Let us know in the comments.
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