If the system failed to post after you made changes to uefi settings
If the system failed to post after you made changes to uefi settings
POST Safe Mode Start
Processor Intel® Core™ i7-10700K Processor
Video Card NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti
Motherboard ASUS PRIME Z490-P
Small recap of how this started.
Monitors did not want to wake up from sleep mode. I held the Power Button in order to forcibly shut down PC.
When I started the PC back up it gave me a message
Problem was that when I pressed F1 and it took me to the BIOS. I did not know anything I was looking at so I Saved and Exited.
PC Shut down and restarted but the message popped up again. The only way I could get out of this loop was to Discard and Exit which would lead to the PC booting up fine.
So to test things out I shut down the PC again to see if the message would persist. Naturally it did. What followed was me Discarding and Exiting and searching far and wide a way to solve this problem.
Taking the motherboard battery out
Changing the CSM in the BOOT section
Returning BIOS to Default Mode
Nothing I tried work and the same message kept popping up
So I got desperate and reset PC to factory settings.
So here I am hoping someone can help me.
Am able to get into my PC just fine if I keep Discarding and Exiting but am worried it might damage something long term so am trying to fix.
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OK firstly the PC responded to the forced shutdown by assuming you might need to either enter safe mode or enter the BIOS.
As you found if you simply exited the bios at the message then subsequent shutdown and restarts were fine? If so it’s safe to assume this is a minor issue.
If the PC won’t POST (Power On Self Test ) properly from a normal cold start then it’s a hardware issue.
The most likey cause of not being able to wake the monitor up after it went to sleep are to do with the power settings and or the video drivers.
As a first step can you confirm that after you get into Windows and do a normal shutdown then the PC boots up and the screen wakes up as it should when you do a normal startup?
So I bypass the BIOS Loop by hitting Discard and Exit any other way just keeps me in a restart loop.
After bypassing the BIOS and entering windows everything works fine. Then when am done using the PC I shut down normally through the Menu.
However when I start the PC back up the next day, the same message appears informing me of the POST start and asks me to press F1 to take me to the BIOS Menu which I then bypass by hitting Discard and Exit in the BIOS Menu, which takes me to my regular login page and I can use the PC just fine.
Rinse and repeat.
Everything else works fine, I have no problem waking up from sleep or anything, is just that every time I start or restart my PC it pops up with the message asking me to press F1.
You said you took the MoBo battery out.
Did you replace with a new battery?
No, at the time the post I was reading just said to take it out for 15 minutes or so and then put it back in.
If the system failed to post after you made changes to uefi settings
Update BIOS and try again.
Why you set it manually instead of loading the XMP profile first?
Yes don’t buy Ripjaws kinds, buy TridentZ
It doesn’t matter what brand or line-up it is; G.Skill Trident Z or Ripjaws V, Corsair Vengeance LPX or Dominator Platinum, it doesn’t matter. What does actually matter is the manufacturer of the IC, whether it be Samsung, Micron, or SK Hynix, as Ryzen seems to work best with Samsung and in a lot of cases will fail to POST with non-Samsung kits. Hell, you can buy cheaper RAM without heat spreaders and it’ll still work, it doesn’t need to be fancy.
You can still buy Trident Z kits that have a different die than others, it requires research into the specific part number and finding out who manufactured the die. Some models of Ripjaws V are Samsung while others are Hynix.
For people who want maximum performance over looks, non-RGB RAM like Ripjaws V can actually outperform other kits of the same speed and have great overclocking headroom, so for the price, they are exceptional, at least on the Intel side as you would want to make sure you’d be getting a kit made by Samsung. GVK is Samsung, while GVKB is Hynix.
When I used the 3200 CL16 version of Ripjaws V, I was able to get the RAM speed up to 3466 without even needing to touch voltage above XMP’s 1.35v. Had I wanted to raise the voltage a bit more, I could have pushed 3600.
If the system failed to post after you made changes to uefi settings
Update BIOS and try again.
Why you set it manually instead of loading the XMP profile first?
Yes don’t buy Ripjaws kinds, buy TridentZ
It doesn’t matter what brand or line-up it is; G.Skill Trident Z or Ripjaws V, Corsair Vengeance LPX or Dominator Platinum, it doesn’t matter. What does actually matter is the manufacturer of the IC, whether it be Samsung, Micron, or SK Hynix, as Ryzen seems to work best with Samsung and in a lot of cases will fail to POST with non-Samsung kits. Hell, you can buy cheaper RAM without heat spreaders and it’ll still work, it doesn’t need to be fancy.
You can still buy Trident Z kits that have a different die than others, it requires research into the specific part number and finding out who manufactured the die. Some models of Ripjaws V are Samsung while others are Hynix.
For people who want maximum performance over looks, non-RGB RAM like Ripjaws V can actually outperform other kits of the same speed and have great overclocking headroom, so for the price, they are exceptional, at least on the Intel side as you would want to make sure you’d be getting a kit made by Samsung. GVK is Samsung, while GVKB is Hynix.
When I used the 3200 CL16 version of Ripjaws V, I was able to get the RAM speed up to 3466 without even needing to touch voltage above XMP’s 1.35v. Had I wanted to raise the voltage a bit more, I could have pushed 3600.
If the system failed to post after you made changes to uefi settings
Update BIOS and try again.
Why you set it manually instead of loading the XMP profile first?
Yes don’t buy Ripjaws kinds, buy TridentZ
It doesn’t matter what brand or line-up it is; G.Skill Trident Z or Ripjaws V, Corsair Vengeance LPX or Dominator Platinum, it doesn’t matter. What does actually matter is the manufacturer of the IC, whether it be Samsung, Micron, or SK Hynix, as Ryzen seems to work best with Samsung and in a lot of cases will fail to POST with non-Samsung kits. Hell, you can buy cheaper RAM without heat spreaders and it’ll still work, it doesn’t need to be fancy.
You can still buy Trident Z kits that have a different die than others, it requires research into the specific part number and finding out who manufactured the die. Some models of Ripjaws V are Samsung while others are Hynix.
For people who want maximum performance over looks, non-RGB RAM like Ripjaws V can actually outperform other kits of the same speed and have great overclocking headroom, so for the price, they are exceptional, at least on the Intel side as you would want to make sure you’d be getting a kit made by Samsung. GVK is Samsung, while GVKB is Hynix.
When I used the 3200 CL16 version of Ripjaws V, I was able to get the RAM speed up to 3466 without even needing to touch voltage above XMP’s 1.35v. Had I wanted to raise the voltage a bit more, I could have pushed 3600.
If the system failed to post after you made changes to uefi settings
Update BIOS and try again.
Why you set it manually instead of loading the XMP profile first?
Yes don’t buy Ripjaws kinds, buy TridentZ
It doesn’t matter what brand or line-up it is; G.Skill Trident Z or Ripjaws V, Corsair Vengeance LPX or Dominator Platinum, it doesn’t matter. What does actually matter is the manufacturer of the IC, whether it be Samsung, Micron, or SK Hynix, as Ryzen seems to work best with Samsung and in a lot of cases will fail to POST with non-Samsung kits. Hell, you can buy cheaper RAM without heat spreaders and it’ll still work, it doesn’t need to be fancy.
You can still buy Trident Z kits that have a different die than others, it requires research into the specific part number and finding out who manufactured the die. Some models of Ripjaws V are Samsung while others are Hynix.
For people who want maximum performance over looks, non-RGB RAM like Ripjaws V can actually outperform other kits of the same speed and have great overclocking headroom, so for the price, they are exceptional, at least on the Intel side as you would want to make sure you’d be getting a kit made by Samsung. GVK is Samsung, while GVKB is Hynix.
When I used the 3200 CL16 version of Ripjaws V, I was able to get the RAM speed up to 3466 without even needing to touch voltage above XMP’s 1.35v. Had I wanted to raise the voltage a bit more, I could have pushed 3600.